~Canopy Page Two~

Here we go again.  I was VERY careful with this one.  Wasn't going to make another $1000 mistake.  I did not drill the forward hole that cracked the first one,  no matter how much it tempted me.  The cutting and drilling process went much fastser this time.  This isn't something that I can really show you how to do.  It is a right of passage for all builders, it's something you have to do.   If you have someone close by that has done one before that is willing to help, it will go MUCH faster.

The rear window pretty much fit itself aafter the canopy was cut from it.   It is drilled into the frame with #36 holes, and tapped for #6 screws.  I decided since I successfully installed my SECOND canopy and window with no cracks, I would NOT take the chance of a pop rivet putting in a crack.  Pop rivets are impossible to control how much pressure they put on the plexi.  This canopy and window will have screws everywhere.  It will make removal much easier in the future if necessary.

Time to fiberglass the leading edge of the canopy.  A layer of Superfil is applied to make a flat transition for the glass to lay on.

Then it is sanded, filled, sanded, filled again.  The smoother the transition you have for the fiberglass to lay on, the less work you will have to do to the fiberglass.

Three layers of glass are layed down.  Two on the top up against the electrical tape, and then one just in front of that. The edges of the layers are ground down and sanded, to make filling easier.  Not shown are  the hours of filling and sanding to make the transition seamless.

Got this tip from Sam Buchanan.  After everything is sanded down, the tape was moved out about 1/4" and then filler was applied.  It was sanded down to the level of the tape.  What you get is an edge that is only the thickness of electrical tape.