~Engine Page Two~
Initial baffle seal installation....this is the easy part..a little time consuming, but ok...I think I have 6 hours or so in the whole process.
Another view. The baffles come with a steel pop rivet with a large head to secure the material to the baffles. Tip: The steel pop rivet is very strong, and will tweak the metal, and even put a dimple in the metal. It did not look that secure, so I drilled them out and used thin #6 washers to spread the force of the pop rivet out. It looks much better now.
Detail of the passenger side corner.
Underside of the left rear corner. I extended the back piece to wrap around the sides, then cut a slit in it, folded it over, and used a pop rivet to hold it together
View from the top. On the inboard side of the engine, I had to cut a "v" in the strip as you can see, and put a smaller strip underneath, with a relief cut on the bottom for the corner to make the seal.
Fuel pressure sensor mounted and plumbed with Earl's fittings and steel braided hose. I purchased all of my Earl's fittings and hose from WM Engineering. They are a great source for the complete line of Earl's products. Prices are much better than local speedshops. I simply put in a tee in the fuel line between the fuel pump and carburator.
Airbox assembled and installed with carb heat option. Try to get an engine with a Marvel carb..mine has a Precision, and the airbox takes some more work to make it fit.
The airbox was touching the nose gear when installed. I got a great tip from the RV-List that said to heat it with a heat gun, and press in that spot with piece of pipe. Did the trick perfectly, and did not require any fiberglass work!